Saturday, 13 December 2008
Three-Restaurant Town
Galapagos!!
Another week, another extreme wildlife experience... fortunately this time they were a much more cuddly and less poisonous bunch, it being the Galapagos Islands, home to many endemic and and extremely tame animals. We were lucky enough to get a good last minute deal on the good ship GALAXY, a first-class yacht complete with proper beds (no bunks!), hairdryer, swan-shaped towels, 5 meals a day, tv and dvd player, and Boggle! It was a 16 person capacity boat but there were only nine of us plus crew and guide Polo. Us two Brits, four Americans, two Germans, and one Peruvian via Long Island. We had four days sailing around four different islands. On arrival on Santa Cruz island I got excited at seeing iguanas, crabs and pelicans and our first sighting of a sealion splashing around in the harbour... little did we know we would soon be suffering sealion fatigue... no not really. But they were certainly the most frequently seen animal on the trip, we even had a little stowaway sealion for one day who lazed about on the deck before hopping off when the engines started. The first day we saw giant tortoises who could actually move pretty fast when they wanted. Then down to the dock to board our yacht which definitely looked a cut above the rusty rest. My sea legs were a bit slow in coming as I felt a little queasy the first night down in our little cabin, as we sailed at night on to our next destination. We arrived the next morning at Floreana Island and disembarked to see flamingos, sealions, sea turtles, and lots of little birds. Then back to the boat and off for a snorkelling trip where we saw lots of fish and some sealions. Then back on board getting ready for lunch and an announcement comes over the tannoy - "Ladies and Gentlemen this is your guide speaking, just to let you know we have dolphins circling the boat", we go running outside to see tens of dolphins swimming along with the boat, including about 6 in a row right under the bow. In the afternoon we visited a look-out point and saw a little Galapagos penguin! Which I was convinced we were not going to see. In fact if our guide had not informed us, I would have just thought it was a duck. On the second day we went to Española Island and did more snorkelling, the first part with sealions, which were supposed to be really friendly and would come up to us and play with our flippers etc, according our guide, but we only had one come up really close, which Tanya promptly scared off with a scream of surprise. The second time we got into the water I looked down and saw two Galapagos sharks right below our feet... I even had my underwater camera with me but I was too scared of potentially kicking the sharks and angering them to take any pictures! Saw lots of pretty fish, more sealions, and a few spotted eagle rays. It was cold water though even with a wetsuit. In the afternoon we visited part of the island with huge marine iguanas, yet more sealions, and lots of birds - the famous blue-footed boobies, albatrosses, nazca boobies, all nesting right on the rocks and you could walk right up to them. We were sitting watching the waves crashing around the rocks when our guide points out a Galapagos Hawk just hovering a metre over our heads. On the last night we sailed all evening to the next island, either the sea was very choppy or our captain was in a hurry or drunk as we hurtled along at full speed with the boat rocking madly. Unsurprisingly everyone started to feel a little seasick, fortunately they waited until we had anchored before serving dinner otherwise none of it would have stayed down. The next and final day it was back to the airport via an uninspiring trip to a visitor centre. Only consolation that we were leaving this animal paradise after four short days was that it was grey and rainy.
Friday, 5 December 2008
I have a friend!

On monday night Tanya arrived in Ecuador to accompany me on my travels in the last few weeks here! We have been around Quito a bit (mainly sorting out Galapagos), down to Ambato to visit Maria Teresa and Gonzalo, and the children at the school, now back in Quito and off to Galapagos for a 4 day cruise tomorrow!!
Tanya has conveniently brought 4 stripey tops so we are going to rock the nautical look. After my camera breaking we almost had a disaster in that she didn´t have an adaptor for hers... qué desastre... there is no point going to Galapagos if you don´t have a camera! Fortunately we managed to get hold of one so there will be photographic proof we have gone!
Welcome to the jungle!
I arrive at the lodge to discover that I am the only tourist there... that my sleeping arrangements (I chose the much cheaper camping option over the private cabin) is literally a 1-person tent on a raised platform with a palm-thatched roof. The campsite is on the other side of the lagoon from the main lodge are and I have to be rowed across the black-caiman infested lagoon in order to get there. We go out on a night hike the first evening - a walk from the lodge after dark, with flashlights, to see all the exciting night activity... the first thing we have pointed out is a big hairy tarantula... we also see some tiny frogs, a psychadelic caterpillar, some very impressive stick insects, a few less-threatening looking but more dangerous than tarantula spiders, and lots and lots of huge millipedes. I return to my tent a little shaken.
The next day we are up at the crack of dawn to visit the canopy tower, a 30m wooden observation tower built around a giant capoc tree. We go up with the telescope and spend about 2 hours watching parrots, macaws, toucans, and many other really beautiful birds.
We then take a hike through the jungle with the guides pointing out all the insects and birds and explaining all the medicinal plants they traditionally use. We eat some lemon ants which unsurprisingly are little tiny ants, which taste like lemon. Hear a few stories about anacondas and their hypnotic powers. Just like in the jungle book... I am not sure if this is actually true... if anyone can shed any light please let me know!
We take another hike in the afternoon and go and wake up some noisy night monkeys. The guides know exactly which trees they live in and take the telescope, so we get fantastic views of two little yawning monkeys.In the evening we go hunting for black caimans in the lagoon. We see one about 3m long... they are apparently scared of humans though so not so dangerous. They hang about at the edge of the lagoon waiting for fish or something to swim into their mouths and they have reflective eyes, so you can shine your torch around the lagoon and see all these red eyes staring back at you...
The next day we canoe right to the other end of the lagoon, through the mangroves, and take yet another hike. It is raining when we set off so we take rain ponchos, mine comes down to the ground and I look like the worst witch. We see yet more plants and insects and the biggest giant capoc tree ever with buttresses about 6m high.
On our return to the lodge our guide suggests a swim in the lagoon. Ok so I know there are black caiman there... but have been reassured they are scared of humans, not the other way round. However then one of the other guys starts asking him "So are there anacondas here?" Guide replies "...yep."
"Are there manta rays?"
"Yep."
"Piranha?"
"Yep."
"Electric eels?"
"Yep, and a local boy was killed 2 months ago by one".
(Liz moves swiftly out of lagoon).
In the afternoon our guide takes us to his house where we try some traditional jungle food (fish and plantain wrapped in banana leaf and smoked over a fire), play with his 2 pet black tamarind monkeys and observe 2 tiny feruginous pygmy owls which are living in the roof of his kitchen.
Another night hike in the evening and we see the BIGGEST TARANTULA EVER, about 20cm across and with huge grey hairy legs. Very happy to get back into my little tent all zipped up and safe.
The next morning there is a tiny frog in the shower as a huge thunderstorm outside has forced it to seek shelter from the rain. I am wondering how frog and I are going to shower together then fortunately discover there is no water, so problem solved. (It was my last day and I had been wearing the same clothes for 4 days... decide I will just wash back in Quito!)
The boat rides back to Coca are less eventful but I am still fairly unnerved when we set off in the middle of a big electric storm. No-one has ever been struck by lightning, gracias a dios, the guide says reassuringly. At Coca I get the plane back to Quito and have the 2nd most appreciated hot shower of my trip (no. 1 was following the cold and wet ascent of Puñalica). I have never been so happy to get back to civilisation.
Last day of school!
They put on a "banquete" in my honour which consisted of their normal school lunch, plus a plate of goodies including popcorn, biscuits, cheese, ham and fizzy drink. They gave me a little straw bag as a leaving present and I gave them each a copy of the class photos I had taken the previous week.
Puñalica Ascent no.2
A few Puñalica statistics: Its summit is just under 4000m and is pure páramo (moorland) on the highest part. It is apparently an extinct volcano. The lower slopes are gentle and cultivated then the (long) last part a steep climb. The school, our starting point, lies at around 3100m.
We set off around 9.30, taking fortunately a camioneta (pick-up truck) from the school up until the road ran out: unfortunately leaving us on a side of the mountain Gonzalo and Delia don´t seem to know. So we start off at a lively pace along a track though the children are desperate to go off the track and just run/climb straight up. Which after about 15 boring minutes on the track, we do.
They all go running ahead leaving me (accompanied by my little friends Luz and Jessica) and Gonzalo struggling in last place. We find all sorts of plants. Rabbits. Treasure-filled (allegedly) lagoons. A little frog. A talking log (an invention of Gonzalo´s). The mist chases us uphill and threatens to envelop us but never succeeds. After about 2 hours we reach the giant cross on the summit and have well-deserved lunch stop. Popcorn, potatoes, rice, biscuits and jam, even the extra-special guinea pig has been brought for the occasion.
It starts getting cold and we pack and head down - straight down! As the descent is steep the path zigzags all the way down... but the children run and jump (and fall) in a straight line directly down the mountain. The first ones are nearly at the bottom when I am not even halfway and my legs are like jelly! We make it back to school around 13.30. Me and Gonzalo exhausted and the children as if it was just a gentle stroll.
Thursday, 4 December 2008
Breaking the silence...
In the meantime please enjoy this video (if I can manage to upload it) of a fun blindfold directions game with the children on my last day of classes!
Monday, 24 November 2008
Friday, 21 November 2008
My mural!!!
School pictures
At Frances´s request and for anyone else who may be interested, some photos of the El Porvenir school.
Inside one of the classrooms where the 6th and 7th grade (totalling 22 students) are taught together.
The larger building behind is an auditorium.
In the background on the right is the mountain Puñalica which we climbed a few weeks ago in the rain!
Origami madness
Tuesday, 18 November 2008
Large weekend in Bolivar province!
Wednesday, 12 November 2008
Laguna Quilatoa
The next day I was returning home and visited the lake on the way... so after that being the point of my trip to the area, I only ended up spending half an hour there! Fortunately the sunday bus service was much more extensive than other days so I was able to avoid the 3am bus and catch a more civilised 9.30am instead. I got to the lake, took a few photos, bought a nice woolly hat, and caught a ride down to the next town where I would catch the first bus on the long journey back to Ambato.
Wednesday, 5 November 2008
I love to go a wandering...
Yesterday was the chosen day for the ascent of the well-known (to the few thousand people who live near it) mountain PUÑALICA, a mountain of nearly 4000m but as there are snow-capped volcanoes of 5000-6000m nearby, it only looks like a fairly modest hill in comparison. Where we started was at about 3300m so it wasn´t too far but it is a steep climb and the weather didn´t make it any easier. Not too bad going up but towards the top we went into the clouds and as we reached the summit it started raining.
Coming down we went a little off-piste and got completely soaked by the waist-high grass, not to mention falling over a few times into said grass as the ground was uneven (fortunately it was very soft grass and quite nice to fall onto, if only it hadn´t been so cold and wet).
For entertaining moving pictures of the above photo, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECUZ2Bz0Fww
El dia de los difuntos en Salasaca
The current cold and rainy spell began this weekend as you can see in the photos - despite that you can still see in the last photo my best sighting yet of the very active volcano Tungurahua!
Before and after
Little Ecuadorean guinea pig, you are right to look scared and try and hide in a corner. For you know the Day of the Dead is approaching and you are the meal of choice for that day... as you are for many other special occasions. Yours is not a life spent idly in cage, taken out to be stroked and fussed over. You are not to be named Fluffy, Toffee or Gnasher. You are to be roasted and served with boiled potatoes.
You are, actually, quite tasty... bit like chicken.
Monday, 27 October 2008
The children´s library
Thursday, 23 October 2008
A standard day´s teaching.
7.15: Breakfast. Fruit, yoghurt, coffee, bread, marmalade.
7.45: Leave house.
9.00: Arrive at school. 4th grade (8 year olds) english class. 1 girl and 8 boys, programmed to stay in their seats for a maximum of 30 seconds at a time. Play bingo, with prepared cards as drawing 8 squares was too complicated in previous lesson. Shouts of "bingo" at everything number I say despite insistence they only say it when have all the numbers, also despite them not understanding half of the numbers I am saying. Half an hour easily filled.
9.30: 5th grade english class. Play bingo again this time slightly more civilised, though I have to promise to bring about 30 bingo cards for the next class.
10.00: Playtime. Football reigns supreme and breaktime snacks of maize and popcorn.
10.30: 6th grade english. Smallest year group in school with only 4 students. Struggle through asking each other "how old are you".
11.00: 7th grade english. Bit of boring grammar work followed by wordsearch which goes down a storm.
12.30: Lunchtime. Rice and lentils which bizarrely has all the children queueing up for seconds. None of your turkey twizzler rubbish here.
13.00: Home time... back to the buzzing metropolis that is Ambato for a latte and leisurely afternoon.
Sunday, 19 October 2008
Links
Bye!
Friday, 17 October 2008
Finally some photos!
The 4th grade (8 year olds) watching a video in the computer room.
Playing a point to the object game with the 5th grade! I just love the little stripey poncho!!
Another day, another school...
Wednesday, 15 October 2008
First day of classes!
Saturday, 11 October 2008
Picture a big volcano...
I have not yet started my classes yet, i.e. the reason I am here... this week I have just been preparing the classes, and meeting the schools. The main one that I will be working at is a tiny primary school in a village called El Porvenir de Mocha, which is about 15km from Ambato. There are a maximum of 16 students per class and only 6 year groups. English will be taught by year group and focusing on the final year (11 year olds) as they need a certain level for when they go to secondary school. For now they seem to know colours... numbers... and not a whole lot more! I will also be teaching art & craft classes on a Monday but for that they will be 2 year groups at a time. Also will be helping with english classes one or two days a week in a (slightly larger and more organised) school in a village called Quinchicoto. The organisation by the way is http://www.voluntariosdeoccidente.org/
As for where I am staying... in Ambato, a town of about 300,000, with delightful hosts Maria Teresa and Gonzalo who run the organisation. They are originally from Colombia and have been in Ecuador since maybe 1990 or so. VDO has been around for 10 years now. Maria Teresa and I went to Quito on thursday to pick some things up (some clothes donations for the schoolchildren, documents, and a copy of The Big Lebowski on my reccommendation after watching Fargo the other night). Did some touristy stuff like visiting er the touristy area of El Mariscal, the botanical gardens which were beautiful, and listening to Maria Teresa go on about how dangerous all of Quito is. Didn´t even touch the historical centre which will have to do on another visit! And try not to get mugged or kidnapped!
Thursday, 9 October 2008
Welcome!!
This is my first blogging experience so apologies if it is unprofessional or worse still unexciting... I will try and get some photos up soon and on the flickr site too (the 1-person facebook boycott begins here!)